The first day, the first surfing lesson. It was raining, people fled from the beach. The conditions were rough. I had one thought (appart from “these waves look too big” and “I hope I won’t drown the first day”) – to find myself out the back. Me, a total novice, I want to be there – close to those for whom catching a wave is something natural as breathing.
John John Florence rocks. His energy, youthful joy of surfing and dedication inspire me. What comes when this individual mixes his astonishing surfing skills with love to filmmaking? A movie which has been named the greatest surf movie of all time even before it has been officially released.