The first day, the first surfing lesson. It was raining, people fled from the beach. The conditions were rough. I had one thought (appart from “these waves look too big” and “I hope I won’t drown the first day”) – to find myself out the back. Me, a total novice, I want to be there – close to those for whom catching a wave is something natural as breathing.
I was scared. I didn’t succeed that day.
I came back the second day. It was one of the greatest challenges of my life. I was scared as hell, but didn’t turn back. When I paddled out trying to catch the rhythm of the waves (so as not to fall off the board in the middle of the road) the adrenaline was pumping. One more, two more moves and I will be on the spot! – I said to myself.
When I got there, caught my breath and calmed down, I sat down on my board and felt the incredible silence which reigned around me. It felt like there were only two of us – me and the ocean. To be honest, we even had a little chat. It was actually my monologue 🙂 However strange it may sound, I felt deep connection with this powerful, untamable water. I felt that the ocean has allowed me to be there to achieve my goal, fulfill my little dream.
The truth is that I needed it. I needed to do something that would allow me to leave my comfort zone. And it was amazing. A feeling of great fulfillment accompanied me throughout the day. I remember telling my friends about it. I was so excited! I felt that I find my new goal, my new challenge (I’m a type of a person who needs that): to learn how to surf no matter what. Of course I thought about it before. I felt that I might love it, but I hadn’t this certainty. Now I have. A few moments alone with the ocean was enough to be sure.
You have to go beyond your comfort zone. You have to find the courage. Out there could be something that will change your life. I need to remember that.
Photo by Voytech
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