Surfing

Out of a comfort zone

The first day, the first surfing lesson. It was raining, people fled from the beach. The conditions were rough. I had one thought (appart from “these waves look too big” and “I hope I won’t drown the first day”) – to find myself out the back. Me, a total novice, I want to be there – close to those for whom catching a wave is something natural as breathing.